BY RACHEL DICKENS
This post is part of our Barely Refined series that gives readers a weekly dose of all things decadent and indulgent.
As someone who bores easily, I can always gauge my love for a restaurant by how soon I’m willing to go back somewhere. 96 hours ago, I had the Peking Duck Dinner (or the Beijing Duck Feast) at Sun Wah in Uptown, and I’ve already considered returning at least seven times.
The off-menu feast – and, of course, the restaurant itself – is a Chicago institution at this point. In a city where openings, trends and chef swaps are nearly impossible to keep straight, it’s always refreshing to visit an eatery that’s gone strong since opening almost three decades ago.
Sun Wah’s keys to success are clear. BYOB policy? Check. Massive space to accommodate large groups? Check. And, more than anything else, the most incredible duck anyone’s ever tasted in the history of Earth’s existence? Check, check, a million times over, check.
From start to finish, the entire dinner is an experience. Seconds after downing our first water glasses, a few carts arrived tableside toting whole ducks with skin that shined brighter than the top of the Chrysler building (it’s true, awesome food makes me talk like Miss Hannigan from Annie).
The first course comes with steamed bao, pickled daikon and some other random veggies that I was too busy obsessing over my duck to notice. Layered around slices of perfectly tender duck meat and drizzled with Hoisin sauce, these ingredients comprise bite after bite of umami-laden euphoria.
As if the initial plating wasn’t enough, the chefs – ahem, brilliant wizards – repurpose the remaining meat towards Duck Fried Rice, a savory soup and a heaping tray of egg noodles and vegetables with a brown sauce so tangy and delicious, I had literal separation anxiety after the last bite.
After a multi-course feast and resounding praise from the entire table, my group was ready to shell out whatever price our server named. Seriously, he could’ve asked us to spare a member of our party for ritual sacrifice and we probably would’ve considered it (jk, guys – love you all!).
When the bill came out to $20 per person, including tax and tip, we were dumbfounded – and already gearing up for our return visit, despite our typically fickle appetites. Call and order ahead 2-3 days for the Beijing Duck Feast to ensure that it will be available for your group.
Sun Wah BBQ, 5039 North Broadway. For more information call 773-769-1254 or visit online.
